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Once/Calle Paso

Navigate through the bustling crowds to discover Art Nouveau architecture that somehow survived intact, vibrant Jewish history & an insane amount of commerce… a side of Buenos Aires often overlooked.

This guided walk covers 12 blocks & highlights the most important sites of a mini-neighborhood known as Once (pronounced OHN-say)… one of those unofficially-named areas like Palermo Hollywood or Barrio Norte. Nestled within the Balvanera district, a single street serves as the axis for this stroll through the heart of central Buenos Aires.

Buildings by some of the best Art Nouveau architects in the city are a focus of the walk. Compare the styles of Virginio Colombo, Julián García Núñez & Mario Palanti while learning about conservation efforts & how Once surprisingly became a center for this decorative & decadent style of architecture. Other styles also dot the neighborhood.

Immigration is another main topic featured in this guide. Once is one of the most multicultural areas in Buenos Aires where a mix of Jews, Koreans, Bolivians & Africans work & live together. In a city that prides itself on being so European, this walk presents a very different & exciting view of the city.

Finally, commerce & transportation can’t be ignored in Once… they give the area a buzz that defines the neighborhood. Learn about the oldest train service in the nation, how it helped trade grow in Once, & how things are organized today. Two detailed maps are included: one for the main walk along Calle Paso plus a second map that zooms in on Plaza de Miserere at the end of the walk.

The plaza may be a bit of an urban mess, but perhaps that’s why rock nacional began in a nearby café. Also bordering the plaza is the tragic site of a 2004 nightclub fire which killed 194 people & wounded over 1,400. They are never forgotten thanks to an interesting memorial. The following blog post discusses the area in more detail & the area’s rough charm: Why Once?

Looking for a break from touristy tango, overpriced Palermo restaurants or San Telmo market trinkets? This PDF guide offers an urban adventure with lots of surprising stories, from the AMIA bombing to a high school founded by Basque missionaries… fundamental to develop a more complete understanding of Buenos Aires. Sample sheets below demonstrate the guide’s general layout:

Endless Mile, Buenos Aires, Once-Calle Paso guide
  • Format: PDF, A5 portrait, 53 pages (file size 7.3 Mb). Ideal for viewing on any tablet or phone. Released Nov 2011, last updated Dec 2022. This guide may not be redistributed or resold.
  • Duration: The route takes about 90 minutes to walk at a leisurely pace. You may need extra time to gaze at all the architecture & take photos.
  • Price: US $5.49 via PayPal (taxes included). A link to download the PDF will be sent to your email address after payment is confirmed.

Endless Mile, Buenos Aires, domes, cúpulas

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