With big-name attractions like the Alhambra in Granada, the Mezquita-Catedral in Córdoba or the Alcázar in Sevilla, Huelva usually doesn’t get the attention it rightfully deserves. Stunning architecture, an important industrial past, fantastic cuisine & the 1492 Columbus departure point are only a few reasons to visit this often-overlooked provincial capital.
Read More »spain: huelva
After an evening in Avilés, Rafa & I made our way to the largest metropolitan area in Asturias. We hit Carnaval festivities, but I was interested in exploring the city more than the party. With less than two full days in Gijón, we’d have our work cut out for us…
Read More »spain: gijón
A long hike that we only did halfway then returned… but this trail has plenty of flowing water, a few flowers (even in January) & lots & lots of sheep. We’ll likely do the entire walk one day, but for now enjoy this partial description of a beautiful river trail.
Read More »el pedroso: río huesna trail
Using a pandemic flight voucher that was set to expire, Rafa & I took a quick trip to Asturias in February. Not only could we both fly for free with that single voucher, but we also went direct from Sevilla. Win, win. I hadn’t been to Asturias since 1998, so those vague memories needed an update… whatever weather we encountered.
Read More »spain: avilés
With Semana Santa just around the corner, bars in Sevilla sell up to three times their normal rate of any tapa without meat… whether customers are observing Lent or not. Of course anything with cod is a big hit now, but espinacas con garbanzos are popular all year round. Tender, healthy & packed with flavor, this is a great way to get some veggies into your bar diet. Let’s get cooking!
Read More »recipe: espinacas con garbanzos
Just off the tourist track, this pantheon honors some of Spain’s most important political thinkers of the 19th century. New value has recently been given to this old idea, so I wouldn’t be surprised if more leading figures were placed here soon. If you’re at the Reina Sofia Museum, hop across the busy avenue & check out this hidden gem of Madrid.
Read More »madrid: panteón de españa
Our longest trail to date! If we’d kept going north, we could have made it to the next town in the same amount of time. I’ll have to confess though… this wasn’t my favorite trail in the area. Most of the hike is open, with little shade & little opportunity to see animals. But the stretch from the viewpoint to the main road is fantastic. Now you know before you go 😉
Read More »el pedroso: azulaque viewpoint
Designed by a French landscape architect for the 1929 Ibero-American Expo, Parque María Luisa was once the backyard of the powerful Montpensier family; in fact, Sevilla named the park after its Duchess donor. Today, this 34-hectare public space remains the largest green area in the city, full of many interesting nooks & crannies to explore. Let’s have a look at its past & present…
Read More »sevilla: parque maría luisa
The Huéznar River —sometimes written Huesna, as it can also be pronounced— begins near San Nicolás del Puerto & meanders to a large reservoir before emptying into the Guadalquivir. Known for a long series of cascades, the riverbed creates a real oasis in an otherwise semi-dry area. We’ve only begun to explore trails here & will add more content as our walks progress.
Read More »photo essay: río huéznar
After a two year break, I’m on the road again! The book department —as Rick Steves himself put it— has a herculean task ahead of themselves this year: update each & every guidebook the company publishes. We all have our work cut out for us. In fact, this is just the first part of my schedule. I’ll be updating the entire Portugal book in June & July. But let’s not jump the gun…
Read More »spain: guidebook research 2022