With Semana Santa just around the corner, bars in Sevilla sell up to three times their normal rate of any tapa without meat… whether customers are observing Lent or not. Of course anything with cod is a big hit now, but espinacas con garbanzos are popular all year round. Tender, healthy & packed with flavor, this is a great way to get some veggies into your bar diet. Let’s get cooking!
Read More »recipe: espinacas con garbanzos
Just off the tourist track, this pantheon honors some of Spain’s most important political thinkers of the 19th century. New value has recently been given to this old idea, so I wouldn’t be surprised if more leading figures were placed here soon. If you’re at the Reina Sofia Museum, hop across the busy avenue & check out this hidden gem of Madrid.
Read More »madrid: panteón de españa
Our longest trail to date! If we’d kept going north, we could have made it to the next town in the same amount of time. I’ll have to confess though… this wasn’t my favorite trail in the area. Most of the hike is open, with little shade & little opportunity to see animals. But the stretch from the viewpoint to the main road is fantastic. Now you know before you go 😉
Read More »el pedroso: azulaque viewpoint
Designed by a French landscape architect for the 1929 Ibero-American Expo, Parque María Luisa was once the backyard of the powerful Montpensier family; in fact, Sevilla named the park after its Duchess donor. Today, this 34-hectare public space remains the largest green area in the city, full of many interesting nooks & crannies to explore. Let’s have a look at its past & present…
Read More »sevilla: parque maría luisa
The Huéznar River —sometimes written “Huésna,” as it can also be pronounced— begins near San Nicolás del Puerto & meanders to a reservoir before emptying into the Guadalquivir. Known for a long series of cascades, the riverbed creates a real oasis in an otherwise semi-dry area. We’ve only begun to explore trails here & will add more content as our walks progress.
Read More »photo essay: río huéznar
After a two year break, I’m on the road again! The book department —as Rick Steves himself put it— has a herculean task ahead of themselves this year: update each & every guidebook the company publishes. We all have our work cut out for us. In fact, this is just the first part of my schedule. I’ll be updating the entire Portugal book in June & July. But let’s not jump the gun…
Read More »spain: guidebook research 2022
Rafa & I continue to explore the large number of walking trails in our area, & this is the most well-known. Its first two sections are beautiful with several opportunities to spot horses, sheep, cattle & even pigs! Although lengthy, the route is generally flat with well-maintained backroads & paths. Take a picnic lunch, & spend a fun afternoon walking through this biosphere / natural park.
Read More »el pedroso: arroyo de las cañas trail
Visiting cemeteries has long been a source for inspiration in my travels; no better proof of that than writing a blog about Recoleta Cemetery for the past 15 years! I’ve been amazed by beautiful sculptures & fascinating stories from Montevideo to Milan, but the cemetery in Sevilla offers a chance to see history being rewritten. If you know where to look…
Read More »sevilla: cementerio de san fernando
Even easier than the Mirador de Alonso, this walking route is so new that it doesn’t have an official name yet! Still under construction on the day after Thanksgiving, we were surprised at all the animals we saw along the way: falcons, storks, sheep, friendly dogs & curious cattle… an easy way to connect with nature if you happen to be in the area.
Read More »el pedroso: newest trail
And you thought gazpacho was the only way Spaniards found another use for day-old bread! Much of Spanish cooking is waste not-want not using simple, high quality ingredients. In fact, migas (literally “breadcrumbs”) uses only five common kitchen staples to make a classic dish. This particular recipe comes from a family of saffron harvesters in Castilla-La Mancha, so they add a pinch of their local spice. For this traditional shepherd’s dish, saffron wouldn’t normally be on hand but its addition makes this version even more tasty.
Read More »recipe: migas