I’ve already written about Semana Santa in Sevilla & shared some of my favorite moments, so is there a need to write more? Of course! Each year brings new emotions as well as new ways to enjoy Holy Week, & 2026 turned out to be super special. Here’s why…
Weather + timing
The past few years have not been ideal for enjoying festivities. My aunt passed away in 2023 with Holy Week beginning only three days later. Sigh. I cancelled plans & headed to Iowa to take care of things… family duty called.
In 2024, Rafa & I picked a random day to pay for a hotel since commuter trains don’t run as late as processions do. Seeing the exit of San Esteban with costaleros on their knees thrilled us, but all our remaining processions were cancelled due to rain.
2025 was hit & miss with heavy rain cancelling many processions. Add to the mix me guiding a tour through Andalucía for Rick Steves. I prepared the group for lots of special moments that never happened, but we did have some wonderful experiences in Córdoba, Úbeda & Granada when the weather cooperated. Our bus arrived in Sevilla as the last procession finished on Easter Day, so we missed out on that.
However in 2026, I arrived in Sevilla on Viernes de Dolores with a tour group… a great way to slide everyone into the intensity of Holy Week. As we ended on Palm Sunday, I had the whole day to enjoy. And the weather! No threat of rain, not too hot during the day, nor too cold at night. Couldn’t ask for more.
Viernes de Dolores
After a flamenco performance with the group, Rafa & I found a quiet street to see our first procession: La Corona. Over the five years I lived in Sevilla, I never paid much attention to pre-Holy Week processions… other than the Via Crucis in our neighborhood. This turned out to be a beautiful way for us to begin a memorable week, as we tagged along with others following the float.
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I had an unexpected moment when Rafa went to get us a pizza. Wandering down Calle San José, I noticed the doors of San Nicolás de Bari open, so I thought I’d pop in to see floats. Instead, it was a semi-private affair with members of the brotherhood & costaleros.
They moved the palio for Mary opposite the Jesus float as well as checked to see if everything was truly ready for the streets of Sevilla. Only about 100 of us fit inside. As this was a working moment they requested no photos or video be taken of the retranqueo… intimate & magical.
Domingo de Ramos
Rafa & I began the morning with a dash to the cathedral to see if, by some miracle, we’d make it in time for the blessing of olive branches by the Archbishop. Since we’d taken the time to get dressed to the nines, both guards let us in even though the ceremony had already begun.
We grabbed a couple of olive branches & found our way to the pews, but managed to run into the owner of our hotel… who just happens to sing in the Gregorian chant choir. Who knew? I had no idea what to expect & neither did Rafa since he’d never attended this particular service before. But we’re good at following cues, so we listened & did as others.
Priests read a shortened version of the entrance of Jesus into Jerusalem & afterwards the Archbishop blessed everyone’s branches with Holy Water. Then we reenacted the biblical scene by exiting & walking around the cathedral. It was so emotional, I couldn’t help but shed a tear while asking Rafa: how can people not get worked up by this kind of re-creation? We didn’t stay for Mass, but what a moment to remember.
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Since we had a couple of hours to spare, we decided to see a few floats inside churches.
Pro tip: If you aren’t into crowds, this is an easy way to enjoy Semana Santa, get lost in the details & perhaps connect with a certain Passion scene or image of Mary closer than you can often get during an actual procession. Also on organized display is all the paraphernalia carried by participants… items are also on sale by the brotherhood (estampas or small prints of images, rosaries, bracelets, etc.)
We visited the Iglesia de San Nicolás —home of La Candelaria & Jesús de la Salud— while I explained what happened the night before to Rafa. Next came the Iglesia de Santiago —home of Jesús de la Rendención with a scene portraying the kiss of Judas + the Virgen del Rocío Coronada.
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Then it was time to stake out a spot for La Cena. We arrived at the Iglesia de Los Terceros to find a long line waiting to see floats —partially due to the eminent exit of the brotherhood’s three pasos, but also because the church housed floats from Las Cigarreras (construction of a new hotel prohibited their normal route).
Fortunately we had time for a couple beers & a quick pincho moruno at an outside table of Bar 11 Sol… a perfect moment to scope out where the sun would be, where we’d have unobstructed views & take advantage of the bar WC. Lots of planning goes into finding the perfect spot!
Rafa & I ended up selecting a “second row,” standing behind short adults & kids + next to reserved seating for older members of the brotherhood. A family then placed their baby stroller behind us, effectively blocking us in from others… so we only had to deal with pushy folks on one side! As crowds filled in, police told us that we’d have to move backwards as the first float came out due to its size.
Church doors opened to an anticipating crowd buzzing with excitement. Semana Santa has begun! Long lines of nazarenos quickly followed the cruz de guía before we caught first sight of the Last Supper float. Those of us standing directly in front of the door indeed had to crowd together so the gigantic paso could turn 90º & continue down the street.
Describing that moment is difficult because so much happens at once & so rapidly: the capataz shouts instructions to the costaleros who can’t see, spectators collectively hold their breath in respectful silence & in awe, a steady shuffle of costalero feet becomes the only sound you hear, I thought of the costalero who had “aquí descansa dios” tattooed on his first vertebra, incense overwhelms as the float comes within centimeters of where you stand, then a sense of joy & accomplishment as the float continues on its way.
Cristo de la Humildad y Paciencia comes along in the middle of the procession & has always been a favorite due to an expression of resignation. Finally the Virgen del Subterráneo exits, a few bars of the national anthem is played & crowds disperse quickly… either to join family members in the procession along the route or to rush to another church & see a different procession altogether.
I’d wanted to stay in Sevilla for more, but also realized that we needed to get home & rest. We’d had a fantastic day of sights, sounds & experiences… and we’d return soon.
Viernes Santo
Rafa & I were fortunate to catch a late morning train to get to Sevilla. After lunch near our hotel, we dropped off our stuff & had a quick siesta before heading out. Holy Friday gets going later than other days due to Madrugá processions the evening before.
First on our list was the exit of La Soledad de San Buenaventura. We managed to find a spot right by the door with an unexpected surprise: sunlight shining down the narrow street as the float left the building… something that depends on when Easter falls each year. Also, we heard not only one but two saetas!
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Heading to our next procession, we realized that La Carretería would pass nearby. I’d seen the salida in 2021 & always think their velvet robes & tunics are super stylish… although super hot to wear. Accompanying the palio was the Banda Sinfónica Julián Cerdán from Sanlucar de Barrameda.
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After a couple of well-deserved drinks at the classic bar Los Alcázares —surprisingly uncrowded— we made our way to Calle Dueñas to see La Mortaja pass by. A guy on a balcony sang a saeta as the procession approached, announcing the death of Jesus with a solemn ring of bells… then he sang another as the float came nearer. One of my must-sees.
[Video coming soon!]
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Finally, we made it to the cathedral to see San Isidoro with the brightly lit Giralda in the background. Another magical moment. From a distance we saw both La O & El Cachorro exit the cathedral, so I guess we saw 4.5 processions today!
Sábado Santo
After a long rest, we repeated the process & stopped by to see the floats of Santo Entierro. Since I’ve always seen them at night near the cathedral, I never realized that they are guarded by guys dressed as Roman soldiers who take their role seriously… the scowl for my photo was incredible:
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Next up, a quick visit to Los Servitas. What beautiful images filled with emotion:
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Nearby in Santa Marina, we ran into the Archbishop again! He addressed members of La Resurrección before their procession the following day, & it was a treat to see floats of La Hiniesta (their church had been damaged by a series of nine storms that hit us in February). I wish the Resurrection misterio had been placed better placed for photos, but the former church itself made a spectacular background:
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Last treat before heading home, a fantastic lunch at Bar La Pastora then the exit of La Trinidad;
So if I’m not religious, why does Semana Santa mean so much to me? I wish I had an easy answer… even I don’t understand sometimes. I think the Baroque-ness of the spectacle appeals, but also this overwhelming sense of community & connection attracts as well. Emotion, devotion & seeing the faith of others is truly inspiring. Can’t wait for next year!